Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Troubleshooting A/C Problems

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This is the time of the year when you want the air conditioning in your car to be running at its peak performance. If yours is not, there are some things you can do to fix it.

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If your A/C works for awhile, but then begins to blow warm air, it is frozen up. That occurs when there is air and/or moisture in the system. To literal, the problem, use a vacuum pump to purge the system.

If you A/C only blows warm or hot air, check the compressor by beginning the car and putting the A/C on. If the compressor itself makes a lot of noise or you hear a squeal, it is telling you it is time to replace it. If not, look to see if the compressor clutch is turning. The clutch is settled in the front of the compressor. If it is turning, there is adequate refrigerant in the system. Most cars have a safety switch that shuts off the compressor if it is too low on refrigerant.

If the compressor clutch is not turning, check to see if it is getting voltage. If it is not, replace the fuse. Then start the car and put the A/C on. If the A/C works for awhile, but the fuse subsequently blows, you have a short somewhere. If the compressor is getting voltage but it is not engaging, the clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. If you feel any liquid colse to the compressor shaft seal, you should replace that also. Remember, before you replace any parts, the refrigerant must first be evacuated from the system.

One good way to diagnose the principles is by using a set of A/C aid gauges. The price range for a set of gauges is and up. Attach the gauges to the high and low aid fittings on the A/C unit. Then turn the A/C in your car to the highest setting and rev the engine. If both gauges read low, the question could be with the compressor or that the principles is low on refrigerant. Before you recharge the system, check for leaks.

If you have an older car with an R-12 system, you can feel for an oily residue colse to the compressor, condenser, hoses, etc. Most new cars have an R-134 system. Leaks with this principles are harder to find because you will not find any oily residue. Another way to check for leaks is to spray some soapy water on the hoses, connections, etc. Wherever you see a bubble, there is a leak. If you find a leak, you need to replace that part. Unfortunately, if your evaporator or condenser is leaking, the transfer cost will be high. If you do replace the leaky part, you will need to recharge the principles afterwards.

If you do not find any leaks, the principles could still need to be recharged. That is because all cars leak some refrigerant straight through tiny pores in the hoses and straight through the seals. The older the car, the more refrigerant will have leaked. Newer cars have a smaller principles capacity than older ones. Therefore, even a small estimate of leakage in a newer car can negatively impact its cooling capability.

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